Map courtesy of the University Libraries, The University of Texas at Austin
Leo
Crested Geckos (recently scientifically reclassified out of the Rhacodactylus genus and now known as Correlophus ciliatus) are native to the tropical rainforests of New Caledonia; a small cluster of Pacific islands located northeast of Australia. C. ciliatus are commonly called "Crested geckos" or "Eyelash geckos" due to the distinctive rows of fleshy spikes that run over their eyes and down the sides of their heads. Thought to be extinct for many years, they were rediscovered in 1994, and several hundred animals were brought to the United States shortly thereafter for study and breeding. Crested Geckos proved very prolific in captivity, and have since become popular to keep as pets.
Crested Geckos make ideal pets due to their beauty, easy to manage size, calm temperment, and ease of care in captivity. Adult Crested Geckos average 8-10 inches in total length (including tail) and 40-60 grams in weight. When cared for properly, it is believed that they may live as long as 15 to 20 years. They show amazing variety in appearance and have been bred in a wide variety of patterns and colors- including striped, spotted, brindled, oranges, yellows, reds, greens (olives), creams, browns, and others. Cresties tolerate human handling better than most reptiles and rarely even threaten to bite. Though they do have specific humidity requirements, Crested Geckos do best at the same room temperatures enjoyed by humans so rarely need any special heating or lighting.
Crested Geckos in the wild are mainly arboreal, spending most of the day sleeping in favorite perches or nests, and the night time climbing and jumping through the trees in search of other small animals, insects, fruit, and nectar to eat. They are excellent climbers and jumpers, having folds of skin on their feet called lamellae and tiny claws on each toe which help them grasp onto and climb very smooth surfaces, even glass. The tips of their long prehensile tails also have a flattened end covered in lamallae, and they use this tail to help balance and secure themselves as they move through the trees. Like many other lizards, Crested Geckos can drop their tails as a lure for an enemy when startled or threatened. However, Crested tails will not regrow once dropped.
Crested Geckos make ideal pets due to their beauty, easy to manage size, calm temperment, and ease of care in captivity. Adult Crested Geckos average 8-10 inches in total length (including tail) and 40-60 grams in weight. When cared for properly, it is believed that they may live as long as 15 to 20 years. They show amazing variety in appearance and have been bred in a wide variety of patterns and colors- including striped, spotted, brindled, oranges, yellows, reds, greens (olives), creams, browns, and others. Cresties tolerate human handling better than most reptiles and rarely even threaten to bite. Though they do have specific humidity requirements, Crested Geckos do best at the same room temperatures enjoyed by humans so rarely need any special heating or lighting.
Crested Geckos in the wild are mainly arboreal, spending most of the day sleeping in favorite perches or nests, and the night time climbing and jumping through the trees in search of other small animals, insects, fruit, and nectar to eat. They are excellent climbers and jumpers, having folds of skin on their feet called lamellae and tiny claws on each toe which help them grasp onto and climb very smooth surfaces, even glass. The tips of their long prehensile tails also have a flattened end covered in lamallae, and they use this tail to help balance and secure themselves as they move through the trees. Like many other lizards, Crested Geckos can drop their tails as a lure for an enemy when startled or threatened. However, Crested tails will not regrow once dropped.
GENERAL CRESTED GECKO CARE
THE BASICS:
Crested Geckos really are very easy to care for. We have put together a pretty in depth caresheet here to share the information and tips we have gathered and learned ourselves over the years, but really the basics are quite simple. The vast majority of hobbyists raise happy, healthy geckos just doing the following:
1- Mist your gecko every night.
2- Feed your gecko a properly balanced Crested Gecko Diet every other day, and bugs no more than once a week.
3- Clean your gecko's tank when it gets dirty (usually once every 1-2 weeks).
4- Maintain temperatures in the 70s F.
1- Mist your gecko every night.
2- Feed your gecko a properly balanced Crested Gecko Diet every other day, and bugs no more than once a week.
3- Clean your gecko's tank when it gets dirty (usually once every 1-2 weeks).
4- Maintain temperatures in the 70s F.
MORE IN DEPTH INFO:
Diet
Gala eating on an elevated feeding ledge
Crested geckos have very specific dietary requirements, requring the correct ratios of calcium, phosphorus, potassium, and vitamin D3 among other nutrients, proteins, and fats. Though much of the published literature on Crested Geckos recommends using baby food, we strongly recommend against feeding baby food, as the sugar content in most is extremely high and the nutrient ratios are poor. Though babyfood CAN be properly supplemented, every gecko we have ever come across that has been maintained by an average hobbyist or breeder on a babyfood diet has displayed severe nutrient deficiencies, and most display symptoms of irreversible Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD). Instead, there are several extensively researched and tested powdered meal replacement formulas on the market, Repashy's Crested Gecko Diet (CGD) and Clark's Gecko Diet being the most well known and respected among breeders. These diets are easy to use- simply mix them with a little water and serve in small dishes. We recommend that all Crested Gecko hobbyists feed their Crested geckos primarily one of these two complete CGD diets as their staple food, as it is very difficult and takes considerable expertise ensure that a Crested gecko receives the proper nutrition otherwise. We currently feed our own colony on a rotation of Repashy 3.0, Pangea Fruit Mix, and Big Fat Gecko Smoothies. Please note that though these CGD diets are not expensive, they are rarely carried by major pet stores so usually must be found and ordered online. We order our foods from www.PangeaReptile.com and www.BigFatGeckos.com.
Another common feeding mistake is to rely exclusively on live insects as a staple food. We are not sure what percentage insects may make up of a Crested Gecko's diet in the wild, but have learned by experience that diets comprised only of insects (even dusted and gut-loaded insects) typically lead to unhealthy Crested Geckos. We recommend feeding bugs at most once or twice a week, and feeding geckos CGD as the "staple" food the rest of the time to ensure that they are getting the proper nutrition. If feeding CGD, this is a completely balanced food and it is not necessary to feed live insects at all. In you do choose to feed insects, care needs to be taken to pick proper species and sizes. Young (wingless) crickets and Dubia roaches are the most common and appropriate live feeders for Crested Geckos. Hard-shelled insects such as superworms should be avoided. There have been some reports that Butterworms may be toxic to Crested Geckos. Any feeder insect should be no longer than a gecko's head is wide. Our geckos are fed only gut-loaded and Repashy ICB-dusted crickets at most once a week.
Crested Geckos have small stomachs (a Crestie's stomach is approximately the same size as one of its eyeballs), so do not eat much per feeding, and do not necessarily eat every day. It often can be difficult to determine if any food is missing at all from a dish, so the best way to monitor that a Crestie is eating is to monitor an enclosure for poop. Most breeders replace the CGD in their gecko feeding dishes once every 2 to 3 days, and leave the dishes in with the geckos all the time. It may be necessary to mix a bit of fresh water in the CGD each evening to soften it up. Always be on the lookout for mold and remove a dish immediately if mold is spotted. As with most reptiles, one of the best ways to monitor overall health is to regularly weigh and keep records of each gecko's weight to be sure they are eating and growing.
Another common feeding mistake is to rely exclusively on live insects as a staple food. We are not sure what percentage insects may make up of a Crested Gecko's diet in the wild, but have learned by experience that diets comprised only of insects (even dusted and gut-loaded insects) typically lead to unhealthy Crested Geckos. We recommend feeding bugs at most once or twice a week, and feeding geckos CGD as the "staple" food the rest of the time to ensure that they are getting the proper nutrition. If feeding CGD, this is a completely balanced food and it is not necessary to feed live insects at all. In you do choose to feed insects, care needs to be taken to pick proper species and sizes. Young (wingless) crickets and Dubia roaches are the most common and appropriate live feeders for Crested Geckos. Hard-shelled insects such as superworms should be avoided. There have been some reports that Butterworms may be toxic to Crested Geckos. Any feeder insect should be no longer than a gecko's head is wide. Our geckos are fed only gut-loaded and Repashy ICB-dusted crickets at most once a week.
Crested Geckos have small stomachs (a Crestie's stomach is approximately the same size as one of its eyeballs), so do not eat much per feeding, and do not necessarily eat every day. It often can be difficult to determine if any food is missing at all from a dish, so the best way to monitor that a Crestie is eating is to monitor an enclosure for poop. Most breeders replace the CGD in their gecko feeding dishes once every 2 to 3 days, and leave the dishes in with the geckos all the time. It may be necessary to mix a bit of fresh water in the CGD each evening to soften it up. Always be on the lookout for mold and remove a dish immediately if mold is spotted. As with most reptiles, one of the best ways to monitor overall health is to regularly weigh and keep records of each gecko's weight to be sure they are eating and growing.
Humidity and Temperature
Zilla digital humidity and temperature gauge
Establishing and maintaining a propery humidity cycle is critical to Crested Gecko care. Humidity should reach 80-90% at night, and then be allowed to dry out during the day to around 40-50%. Depending on your local conditions, some people need to mist their geckos' enclosures two to three times a day to maintain proper humidity. Average is probably one heavy misting at night and one light misting each morning. As we live near the ocean and enjoy high humidity most of the time, we only need to mist our Crestie enclosures once heavily each night. Though many hobbyists rely only on daily mistings to provide drinking water for their colony, we also provide our geckos with a shallow water dish so geckos always have fresh water on hand, a well as a "humid hide" (We use a deep plastic food storage containers filled with damp shredded coco fiber and a large hole in the top for access) to help maintain humidity in each enclosure and provide the geckos with places to rehydrate as needed.
Not maintaining proper humidity can lead to several major health issues. Dehydration can kill a crested gecko very quickly. Lack of proper humidity levels commonly leads to shedding issues as well. Areas on a crested gecko's body with stuck shed can become infected, and shed often can become stuck and block bloodflow around toes and legs. Lack of proper circulation typically leads to infection and loss of limbs if not death if untreated. On the other hand, not allowing a gecko's enclosure to dry out some during the day can lead to mold, fungus, and respiratory issues. When you mist a gecko's enclosure, you generally want all the foliage and substrate to be slightly damp, but you do not want to leave puddles of water everywhere. You never want to allow standing, stagnant water to build up in a gecko enclosure, as this can quickly become a breeding ground for bacteria that could put both your gecko's and your own heath at risk. Letting a tank partially dry out during the day (dropping no lower than 40-50% humidity) is just as important as reaching the proper humidity at night (80-90%).
Temperature is also crucial. Crested Geckos need to be kept in the high 60s to high 70s F. Temperatures below 60 F and above the mid 80s F can be dangerous. For most people, maintaining the correct temperatures for their Crested Geckos is not an issue, as the ideal range for Crested geckos falls within the human comfort zone and therefore typically reflect the average room temperatures maintained in heated and cooled homes in the USA. However, in some areas of the country or in homes without central AC and heat, under-the-tank or light bulb heaters are required during the winter, and/or AC units may be required during the summer.
Temperature also has a direct correlation to humidity levels, so investment in reliable temperature and humidity montoring equipment is critical to maintaining gecko health. Digital meters are typically more accurate than analog meters. Meters with separate probes often last longer than those without, as the meter itself is then not directly inside an enclosure and exposed to as much moisture. Use of accurate hygrometers and thermometers will allow you to determine how often you need to mist and whether or not you need to provide any supplemental heat to your Crested gecko.
Not maintaining proper humidity can lead to several major health issues. Dehydration can kill a crested gecko very quickly. Lack of proper humidity levels commonly leads to shedding issues as well. Areas on a crested gecko's body with stuck shed can become infected, and shed often can become stuck and block bloodflow around toes and legs. Lack of proper circulation typically leads to infection and loss of limbs if not death if untreated. On the other hand, not allowing a gecko's enclosure to dry out some during the day can lead to mold, fungus, and respiratory issues. When you mist a gecko's enclosure, you generally want all the foliage and substrate to be slightly damp, but you do not want to leave puddles of water everywhere. You never want to allow standing, stagnant water to build up in a gecko enclosure, as this can quickly become a breeding ground for bacteria that could put both your gecko's and your own heath at risk. Letting a tank partially dry out during the day (dropping no lower than 40-50% humidity) is just as important as reaching the proper humidity at night (80-90%).
Temperature is also crucial. Crested Geckos need to be kept in the high 60s to high 70s F. Temperatures below 60 F and above the mid 80s F can be dangerous. For most people, maintaining the correct temperatures for their Crested Geckos is not an issue, as the ideal range for Crested geckos falls within the human comfort zone and therefore typically reflect the average room temperatures maintained in heated and cooled homes in the USA. However, in some areas of the country or in homes without central AC and heat, under-the-tank or light bulb heaters are required during the winter, and/or AC units may be required during the summer.
Temperature also has a direct correlation to humidity levels, so investment in reliable temperature and humidity montoring equipment is critical to maintaining gecko health. Digital meters are typically more accurate than analog meters. Meters with separate probes often last longer than those without, as the meter itself is then not directly inside an enclosure and exposed to as much moisture. Use of accurate hygrometers and thermometers will allow you to determine how often you need to mist and whether or not you need to provide any supplemental heat to your Crested gecko.
Proper Housing
R-Zilla "Fresh Air Atrium"
Selecting or building a proper enclosure can drastically impact Crested gecko health, safety, and reduce the amount of maintenance it takes to keep your Crestie in good shape.
Enclosures should have ventilation (usually a small screen or mesh panel), yet be able to hold in humidity. Tall aquariums with open screened tops, aquariums stood on one end and topped with a "vertical conversion kit" (glass or acrylic on the bottom and screen on the top) as can be found and purchased online, rainforest-style vivariums like ZooMed, ExoTerra, or R-Zilla brands, or homemade plastic bin enclosures with screened in cutouts all can work very well.
As Cresties enjoy climbing, height is more important than enclosure length. It is very important to provide stable climbing vines or branches, ledges for Cresties to rest and sleep on, and live, soft plastic, or silk foliage to hide in and help keep up humidity. You may collect your own driftwood if you are careful to collect hard, dead wood with no sap and to sterilize it properly before use. Soft woods generally do not hold up well in the humidity, and fungus and mold can lead to health issues.
Approximately 50% of a Crested gecko's enclosure should be filled with foliage, with some open areas for climbing and jumping. Live plants like pothos ivy, English ivy, bromiliads, ficus, ferns, and dracanea all can work very well in more naturalistic vivarium setups. Keep in mind that plants need to be sturdy enough to handle being crawled all over and slept in by an 8 inch gecko, and do well with low lighting and high humidity. Research live plants carefully, and avoid plants that produce sticky or toxic saps. Dye-fast silk and soft plastic plants are acceptable low maintenance and easy to clean substitutes.
Substrate also must be chosen with care, as Crested geckos are prone to accidentally eating their substrate, and this can lead to bowel impaction and death. We use paper towels in all but our naturalistic vivariums. Paper towels are a very common substrate, as they are cheap, easy to clean/replace each week, and make it easy to monitor for poop. For naturalistic vivariums, we use a 50/50 mix of shredded coco fiber (Eco Earth) and sifted organic potting soil. Shredded organic peat is another common choice.
The ideal size of a Crested gecko enclosure depends on the size of the animal in question.
Hatchlings (2-7 grams) should be kept in small enclosures. We keep hatchlings in homemade plastic shoebox bins and medium-sized Kritter Keepers. Small (12x12x12) ExoTerra enclosures also are common.
Juveniles (7-15 grams) should be given approximately 10 gallons each. We keep juvies individually in 24 quart homemade plastic bins. Many other breeders use standard 10 gallon aquariums turned up vertically.
Subadults to adults (15 grams+) should be given at least 20 gallons, plus 10 gallons per gecko if keeping more than one in the same enclosure. Our subadults and adults are kept in PVC and screen cages made by Sandfire Dragon Ranch (Sandfire Crested Gecko Cages). Other than during the breeding season, most of our geckos are housed individually or in small female groups.
Keeping geckos (especially hatchlings and juveniles) in enclosures that are too large for them often results in less effective monitoring (they're harder to spot!) and loss of weight, as they seem to have a harder time finding their food.
Some people will house their Crested geckos together. Females of the same size and weight or breeding colonies (1 male to 2 or more females) are options. However, Cresties housed together must always be monitored closely for bullying, feeding aggression, and wounds. Though not common, Crested geckos have been known to kill each other. It is more common for geckos to bully others away from food, resulting in an increasingly unhealthy and cowed smaller gecko. For this reason, geckos of differing sizes should never be housed together. Cresties will eat other Crested geckos if they can catch one small enough, and often mistake other larger geckos' toes, limbs, and tails for live food. It is also common for geckos to eat each others' tails. Males should never be housed together. Males and females should never be housed together unless breeding is a goal, as they WILL breed, and are very prolific breeders. Males typically reach sexual maturity much sooner than females, and will attempt to breed with immature females. This can be very dangerous for young females, due both to increased risk of complications during pregnancy and due to the possibility of young males becoming very aggressive due to sexual frustration from failed breeding attempts. Breeding at any age is very draining on gecko bodies, and often rough and resulting in wounds that need to be treated. In order to eliminate all these risks, we house most of our geckos individually.
Doors to enclosures need to secure properly to keep geckos in their enclosures and keep other animals (especially household pets such as cats) out. Always be careful opening and closing doors, as this is the most common way for geckos to escape and/or lose toes or tails from being shut in enclosure doors. Enclosures should be placed in areas away from drafts, direct sunlight (which can heat up an enclosure too quickly), and preferably up high such as on a shelf away from small children and pets.
Enclosures should have ventilation (usually a small screen or mesh panel), yet be able to hold in humidity. Tall aquariums with open screened tops, aquariums stood on one end and topped with a "vertical conversion kit" (glass or acrylic on the bottom and screen on the top) as can be found and purchased online, rainforest-style vivariums like ZooMed, ExoTerra, or R-Zilla brands, or homemade plastic bin enclosures with screened in cutouts all can work very well.
As Cresties enjoy climbing, height is more important than enclosure length. It is very important to provide stable climbing vines or branches, ledges for Cresties to rest and sleep on, and live, soft plastic, or silk foliage to hide in and help keep up humidity. You may collect your own driftwood if you are careful to collect hard, dead wood with no sap and to sterilize it properly before use. Soft woods generally do not hold up well in the humidity, and fungus and mold can lead to health issues.
Approximately 50% of a Crested gecko's enclosure should be filled with foliage, with some open areas for climbing and jumping. Live plants like pothos ivy, English ivy, bromiliads, ficus, ferns, and dracanea all can work very well in more naturalistic vivarium setups. Keep in mind that plants need to be sturdy enough to handle being crawled all over and slept in by an 8 inch gecko, and do well with low lighting and high humidity. Research live plants carefully, and avoid plants that produce sticky or toxic saps. Dye-fast silk and soft plastic plants are acceptable low maintenance and easy to clean substitutes.
Substrate also must be chosen with care, as Crested geckos are prone to accidentally eating their substrate, and this can lead to bowel impaction and death. We use paper towels in all but our naturalistic vivariums. Paper towels are a very common substrate, as they are cheap, easy to clean/replace each week, and make it easy to monitor for poop. For naturalistic vivariums, we use a 50/50 mix of shredded coco fiber (Eco Earth) and sifted organic potting soil. Shredded organic peat is another common choice.
The ideal size of a Crested gecko enclosure depends on the size of the animal in question.
Hatchlings (2-7 grams) should be kept in small enclosures. We keep hatchlings in homemade plastic shoebox bins and medium-sized Kritter Keepers. Small (12x12x12) ExoTerra enclosures also are common.
Juveniles (7-15 grams) should be given approximately 10 gallons each. We keep juvies individually in 24 quart homemade plastic bins. Many other breeders use standard 10 gallon aquariums turned up vertically.
Subadults to adults (15 grams+) should be given at least 20 gallons, plus 10 gallons per gecko if keeping more than one in the same enclosure. Our subadults and adults are kept in PVC and screen cages made by Sandfire Dragon Ranch (Sandfire Crested Gecko Cages). Other than during the breeding season, most of our geckos are housed individually or in small female groups.
Keeping geckos (especially hatchlings and juveniles) in enclosures that are too large for them often results in less effective monitoring (they're harder to spot!) and loss of weight, as they seem to have a harder time finding their food.
Some people will house their Crested geckos together. Females of the same size and weight or breeding colonies (1 male to 2 or more females) are options. However, Cresties housed together must always be monitored closely for bullying, feeding aggression, and wounds. Though not common, Crested geckos have been known to kill each other. It is more common for geckos to bully others away from food, resulting in an increasingly unhealthy and cowed smaller gecko. For this reason, geckos of differing sizes should never be housed together. Cresties will eat other Crested geckos if they can catch one small enough, and often mistake other larger geckos' toes, limbs, and tails for live food. It is also common for geckos to eat each others' tails. Males should never be housed together. Males and females should never be housed together unless breeding is a goal, as they WILL breed, and are very prolific breeders. Males typically reach sexual maturity much sooner than females, and will attempt to breed with immature females. This can be very dangerous for young females, due both to increased risk of complications during pregnancy and due to the possibility of young males becoming very aggressive due to sexual frustration from failed breeding attempts. Breeding at any age is very draining on gecko bodies, and often rough and resulting in wounds that need to be treated. In order to eliminate all these risks, we house most of our geckos individually.
Doors to enclosures need to secure properly to keep geckos in their enclosures and keep other animals (especially household pets such as cats) out. Always be careful opening and closing doors, as this is the most common way for geckos to escape and/or lose toes or tails from being shut in enclosure doors. Enclosures should be placed in areas away from drafts, direct sunlight (which can heat up an enclosure too quickly), and preferably up high such as on a shelf away from small children and pets.
Examples of our Crested gecko racks:
RECOMMENDED BASIC SUPPLIES AND RELATED TIPS
Assorted supplies
Crested geckos can be kept in very simple and economical setups or very elaborate live planted vivarium ecosystems. The options really are endless, and many enjoy the creative aspects of setting up a nice habitat for their geckos. If you are interested in setting up a live vivarium, we recommend Philip Purser's book Natural Terrariums, as well as spending some time researching on the www.Dendroboard.com forum. Live vivarium setups are usually more expensive, but can be extrordinarily beautiful.
The following recommendations are geared towards setting up a fairly economical, simple, and functional enclosure for a Crested gecko.
The following recommendations are geared towards setting up a fairly economical, simple, and functional enclosure for a Crested gecko.
Enclosures
DIY 24qt plastic juvenile grow-out enclosure
Commercial glass enclosures such as made by ExoTerra and ZooMed are very nice but can be fairly expensive. They are not the only options, however. Pictured is a DIY enclosure for one of our juvenile geckos made out of a 24 qt plastic bin with the front cut out and some fiberglass screen hotglued to the front. This enclosure cost less than $10 to make. We use these enclosures to "grow-out" juveniles, till they reach approximately 15 grams.
Our adult "display" enclosures are PVC and screen cages made by Sandfire Dragon Ranch. They are about the same price and not quite as pretty as all glass enclosures, but we have found these much easier to keep clean and move around as needed.
Be sure to refer to the Housing section when selecting the appropriate size and enclosure configuration for your Crested gecko.
Our adult "display" enclosures are PVC and screen cages made by Sandfire Dragon Ranch. They are about the same price and not quite as pretty as all glass enclosures, but we have found these much easier to keep clean and move around as needed.
Be sure to refer to the Housing section when selecting the appropriate size and enclosure configuration for your Crested gecko.
Foods
Repashy foods and insect supplements
Feeding Crested geckos is not expensive. A single 5.3oz jar of Repashy CGD as shown on the far left should last an adult Crested gecko 3-6 months. Crested geckos can be fed this diet and nothing else for their entire lives.
Also pictured are insect gutload (for feeding insects that will then be fed to geckos) and calcium dusting powder. Gutloading and dusting are important to help improve the nutritional value of insects. Even gutloaded and dusted crickets can never be the "staple" diet for your Crested gecko, however. We feed insects no more than once a week. The package sizes pictured should last a year or more if insects are fed no more than once a week to your gecko. Keeping foods in the refrigerator can help prolong their shelf life.
Some hobbyists and breeders with large collections of geckos will pre-mix their CGD in small condiment squirt bottles and keep it in the referigerator for up to about a week and a half at a time. CGD can also be mixed, frozen into small meal-sized portions, and be kept in the freezer for up to a year. While there have been some reports of Crested geckos accepting dry CGD, we would not feed it dry as dehydration and impaction are already common health risks with Crested geckos.
Also pictured are insect gutload (for feeding insects that will then be fed to geckos) and calcium dusting powder. Gutloading and dusting are important to help improve the nutritional value of insects. Even gutloaded and dusted crickets can never be the "staple" diet for your Crested gecko, however. We feed insects no more than once a week. The package sizes pictured should last a year or more if insects are fed no more than once a week to your gecko. Keeping foods in the refrigerator can help prolong their shelf life.
Some hobbyists and breeders with large collections of geckos will pre-mix their CGD in small condiment squirt bottles and keep it in the referigerator for up to about a week and a half at a time. CGD can also be mixed, frozen into small meal-sized portions, and be kept in the freezer for up to a year. While there have been some reports of Crested geckos accepting dry CGD, we would not feed it dry as dehydration and impaction are already common health risks with Crested geckos.
Weighing
My favorite digital scale
A digital scale that measures at least to a tenth of a gram is a very important tool when it comes to monitoring a gecko's progress and overall health. Sick geckos often will stop eating and lose weight, but it can be very difficult to notice even significant weight loss with an animal as small as a Crestie. Regularly weighing and keeping good records of those weights is a very good husbandry practice, as it can help identify any environmental or husbandry changes that may have led to changes in gecko weights, or point to the onset of any other type of health problem.
Please note that it is very common for geckos to not eat as much and sometimes even lose weight when temperatures are cool. This is normal during cooler winter months, but still should be monitored to ensure that the situation does not deteriorate. Sometimes a gecko may need to be warmed up a few degrees to ensure that they do not lose too much weight, as this can compromise their immune systems.
Crested geckos can also suffer from obesity, which may trigger all sorts of health issues same as with humans and other animals. You don't want a Crested gecko's spine, ribs, and hips to prominently stick up from its body, nor do you want to see a gecko with rolls and rolls of fat. A scale will help identify sudden weight gains and losses, but there is no specific "target weight" that holds true for every Crested gecko, as they can show a pretty large variety in sizes and build. Females in particular are usually heavier than males, especially when gravid. Familiarize yourself with pictures of "normal" Crested geckos so that you understand how a healthy gecko should appear.
Please note that it is very common for geckos to not eat as much and sometimes even lose weight when temperatures are cool. This is normal during cooler winter months, but still should be monitored to ensure that the situation does not deteriorate. Sometimes a gecko may need to be warmed up a few degrees to ensure that they do not lose too much weight, as this can compromise their immune systems.
Crested geckos can also suffer from obesity, which may trigger all sorts of health issues same as with humans and other animals. You don't want a Crested gecko's spine, ribs, and hips to prominently stick up from its body, nor do you want to see a gecko with rolls and rolls of fat. A scale will help identify sudden weight gains and losses, but there is no specific "target weight" that holds true for every Crested gecko, as they can show a pretty large variety in sizes and build. Females in particular are usually heavier than males, especially when gravid. Familiarize yourself with pictures of "normal" Crested geckos so that you understand how a healthy gecko should appear.
Food and water dishes
Assorted food and water dishes
The options are almost endless when it comes to selecting feeding and water dishes. Keep in mind that water levels should always be shallow to reduce the risk of accidental drowning, and food dishes small to help reduce evaporation and the food drying out. All dishes should also be resistant to tipping when crawled over.
Pictured are a shallow commercial reptile water dish, a glass ashtray, a green glass tealight candle holder, and small melamine dish and bowl from a local Asian market. We prefer easy to clean, dishwasher-safe options, but many also use small disposable plastic cups and bottle caps.
We generally clean our food and water dishes each time we replace the CGD in the gecko enclosures, usually ever 2-3 days. We do frequently have to clean the water dishes more often, as we have several geckos that seem to enjoy bathing and pooping in their water dishes and we will find their water dish dirty almost every morning. We keep approximately twice the number of dishes on hand that we actually need for all our geckos, so we can quickly rotate a dirty dish out for a clean one.
Some hobbyists have found that their geckos will eat more if their feeding stations are elevated up off the ground. We have feeding stations setup up both on the ground and some elevated and have not personally noticed any difference.
Misting bottle and water conditioner
Spray bottle and water conditioner
A spray bottle for misting is an essential piece of equipment in order to maintain the proper humidity in a gecko's enclosure. Some do use automatic misting setups such as those used for keeping poison dart frogs, but those are quite a bit more expensive and need to be set up and monitored carefully to ensure the correct humidity cycle. www.Dendroboard.com is a good place to research various models and setup information regarding automatic misters.
Water conditioner is also necessary through most of the United States in order to remove toxic chlorine and chloramines from tap water. Some hobbyists and breeders prefer to use bottled, distilled or Reverse Osmosis water, though these are not necessary if tap water is properly treated before use. Remember to condition ALL water used with your Crested gecko; whether it is to mix food, mist the enclosure, fill the water dish, etc. Also be careful with regular bottled water, as some brands do contain chlorine and/or chloramines and still need to be treated before use.
Water conditioner is also necessary through most of the United States in order to remove toxic chlorine and chloramines from tap water. Some hobbyists and breeders prefer to use bottled, distilled or Reverse Osmosis water, though these are not necessary if tap water is properly treated before use. Remember to condition ALL water used with your Crested gecko; whether it is to mix food, mist the enclosure, fill the water dish, etc. Also be careful with regular bottled water, as some brands do contain chlorine and/or chloramines and still need to be treated before use.
Cleaning supplies
Reptile-safe disinfectant and paper towels
Pictured are a roll of paper towels and a spray bottle with reptile-safe disinfectant (We use chlorhexidine, one of the most commonly available).
We replace paper towel substrates in our gecko enclosures approximately once a week, and thoroughly clean and spray down everything in an enclosure with disinfectant about once a month. Cleanliness is very important both for your gecko's health as well as your own, as dirty enclosures encourage dangerous bacteria. Remember to wash your hands with antibacterial soap each and every time you have been working with your geckos.
We replace paper towel substrates in our gecko enclosures approximately once a week, and thoroughly clean and spray down everything in an enclosure with disinfectant about once a month. Cleanliness is very important both for your gecko's health as well as your own, as dirty enclosures encourage dangerous bacteria. Remember to wash your hands with antibacterial soap each and every time you have been working with your geckos.
Foliage
Juvenile grow-out enclosure with silk foliage
A Crested gecko's enclosure should be filled approximately 50% with foliage. Either live, silk, or soft plastic are acceptable, but be sure that the foliage is strong enough to withstand being crawled all over by a gecko. Also be sure there are no sharp edges and that any dyes used are nontoxic and color-fast.
If using live plants, it is important that they are rinsed well, repotted into organic soil (rinse old soil carefully off of the roots), and plants purchased at nurseries or stores should be given at least a month before being placed in with a gecko to ensure that all pesticide and fertilizer residues have worn off.
If using live plants, it is important that they are rinsed well, repotted into organic soil (rinse old soil carefully off of the roots), and plants purchased at nurseries or stores should be given at least a month before being placed in with a gecko to ensure that all pesticide and fertilizer residues have worn off.
Climbing accesories and sleeping ledges
Young Gala's magnetic sleeping cave
Crested geckos need sturdy branches to climb on and ledges or caves to rest and sleep in. This is another area where you can get very creative and it is easy to find and make your own accessories. All materials need to be nontoxic, sturdy, hold up well to humidity, and easy to clean. Make sure all accessories are stable in their positions to avoid falling and possibly harming a gecko, yet easy to remove for cleaning.
Popular choices for climbing accessories are mopani and malaysian driftwood, commercial bendy vines, bamboo, manzantia wood, virgin cork bark rolls, and various magnetic and suction cupped accessories. If you collect your own wood, be sure to use dead and dried hardwoods and especially avoid woods with high sap content such as pine. Soft woods don't hold up well to humidity and often will mold. Sterilize any collected materials thoroughly by boiling, baking at a low temperature, or running them through your dishwasher on the sanitize cycle with no chemicals. You don't want to introduce any parasites or other pests into your gecko enclosure.
Sleeping ledges are important as they allow geckos to sleep in horizontal positions rather than straight up or down, which often can lead to the development of spine, hip, and tail deformities known as Floppy Tail Syndrome (FTS). Though some geckos will choose to sleep on the ground or on a branch, many enjoy sleeping in hides high up in the enclosure, so it is always good to provide that option. We have begun using hollow foam pipe insulation (found at most hardware stores) with in all of our gecko enclosures as combination perches and sleeping hides. For adult geckos we also use commercial ledges and hides equipped with very strong magnets, as pictured here. For those geckos who spend time sleeping on the ground, especially hatchlings, pieces of plastic PVC pipe work well and can be washed. Many use cardboard egg crate, and toilet paper and paper towel tubes, though we don't like how they don't hold up well during misting. We also worry about salmonella bacteria coming from egg crate if it has been actually used to hold eggs.
Popular choices for climbing accessories are mopani and malaysian driftwood, commercial bendy vines, bamboo, manzantia wood, virgin cork bark rolls, and various magnetic and suction cupped accessories. If you collect your own wood, be sure to use dead and dried hardwoods and especially avoid woods with high sap content such as pine. Soft woods don't hold up well to humidity and often will mold. Sterilize any collected materials thoroughly by boiling, baking at a low temperature, or running them through your dishwasher on the sanitize cycle with no chemicals. You don't want to introduce any parasites or other pests into your gecko enclosure.
Sleeping ledges are important as they allow geckos to sleep in horizontal positions rather than straight up or down, which often can lead to the development of spine, hip, and tail deformities known as Floppy Tail Syndrome (FTS). Though some geckos will choose to sleep on the ground or on a branch, many enjoy sleeping in hides high up in the enclosure, so it is always good to provide that option. We have begun using hollow foam pipe insulation (found at most hardware stores) with in all of our gecko enclosures as combination perches and sleeping hides. For adult geckos we also use commercial ledges and hides equipped with very strong magnets, as pictured here. For those geckos who spend time sleeping on the ground, especially hatchlings, pieces of plastic PVC pipe work well and can be washed. Many use cardboard egg crate, and toilet paper and paper towel tubes, though we don't like how they don't hold up well during misting. We also worry about salmonella bacteria coming from egg crate if it has been actually used to hold eggs.
Humid hides and layboxes
Humid hide and Eco Earth
Pictured is a humid hide for a juvenile Crestie and two "bricks" of pressed Eco Earth.
Maintaining proper humidity/avoiding dehydration is one of the most important aspects to Crested Gecko care. Providing a "humid hide" is one of the best ways to both maintain proper humidity inside an enclosure as well as allow a Crestie someplace to go and rehydrate themselves at will.
Humid hides can be made out of a wide variety of materials, but probably one of the easiest is to use a deep plastic food storage container, cut a hole in the top for access, and poke a few holes in the sides for ventilation. Be careful not to leave any sharp edges. Then fill the hide with a fine-grained, slightly damp substrate. We currently use a 50/50 mix of Eco Earth (shredded coconut fiber) and peat. We have used sifted organic potting soil in the past, but found that we have less issues with annoying fungus gnats when we use the more acidic substrates.
You do want to avoid large-grained substrates (such as bark) or compacting substrates (like sand) that could cause internal blockages if a Crested swallows it while digging in the hide. We microwave our humid hides for a few minutes every few months to sterilize them, then spread out the substrate to cool and remove any waste we may happen to find before replacing the hide in the gecko enclosure. We replace the substrate entirely probably once a year, unless we find it's gotten dirty sooner.
All female Crested geckos 20 grams and above may begin laying eggs, even if they have never been bred. If provided with a large and deep enough humid hide, this can double as a laybox. Layboxes need to be inspected on a regular basis for eggs, as infertile eggs can quickly begin to rot and foul a laybox if not removed promptly. Female crested may lay eggs approximately once every 4 weeks during the warmer months. Monitoring female weights and appearance is usually a good way to tell if they are laying eggs, though by no means failsafe.
Maintaining proper humidity/avoiding dehydration is one of the most important aspects to Crested Gecko care. Providing a "humid hide" is one of the best ways to both maintain proper humidity inside an enclosure as well as allow a Crestie someplace to go and rehydrate themselves at will.
Humid hides can be made out of a wide variety of materials, but probably one of the easiest is to use a deep plastic food storage container, cut a hole in the top for access, and poke a few holes in the sides for ventilation. Be careful not to leave any sharp edges. Then fill the hide with a fine-grained, slightly damp substrate. We currently use a 50/50 mix of Eco Earth (shredded coconut fiber) and peat. We have used sifted organic potting soil in the past, but found that we have less issues with annoying fungus gnats when we use the more acidic substrates.
You do want to avoid large-grained substrates (such as bark) or compacting substrates (like sand) that could cause internal blockages if a Crested swallows it while digging in the hide. We microwave our humid hides for a few minutes every few months to sterilize them, then spread out the substrate to cool and remove any waste we may happen to find before replacing the hide in the gecko enclosure. We replace the substrate entirely probably once a year, unless we find it's gotten dirty sooner.
All female Crested geckos 20 grams and above may begin laying eggs, even if they have never been bred. If provided with a large and deep enough humid hide, this can double as a laybox. Layboxes need to be inspected on a regular basis for eggs, as infertile eggs can quickly begin to rot and foul a laybox if not removed promptly. Female crested may lay eggs approximately once every 4 weeks during the warmer months. Monitoring female weights and appearance is usually a good way to tell if they are laying eggs, though by no means failsafe.
ACCLIMATING YOUR NEW GECKO
Newly arrived Crested gecko
Do your research and purchase all the supplies you need BEFORE you purchase your Crested gecko. This is the best way to be sure it arrives to the best possible care, and eliminate last minute scurrying on your part.
Set up your gecko enclosure a minimum of a few days to a week or more in advance and begin misting and monitoring the humidity and temperature. This practice will help you troubleshoot for any problems BEFORE your new gecko might be subject to poor conditions, and allow you invaluable hands-on experience in terms of what it will take for you to maintain the proper humidity and temperature in your particular home. Be aware of how fluctuations in seasons and local weather conditions may change the conditions for your gecko over time, and be prepared with options to address these types of changes.
Changes, especially big changes such as being shipped across the country, being packed up and carried around in small plastic deli cups, and being forced into new, strange environments are always stressul on animals. Your job as a new owner is to try to do everything possible to minimize further stress and provide a calm, stable environment for them to settle into.
If you own or plan to own any other reptiles, especially other Crested geckos, any new gecko should go into a strict quarantine for at least the first month (some quarantine as long as three to six months) before being exposed to any other reptiles. This means different enclosures, ideally set up in separate parts of the house to minimize the risk of transmission of issues like respiratory diseases and mobile parasites, separate equipment for each gecko in quarantine, and be sure to wash your hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap when moving between geckos. It may sound extreme to some, but quarantine is the very best way to identify issues before they get any worse, and to prevent the spread of problems to animals that once were healthy before exposure to a new, sick animal.
We recommend starting off all newly arrived geckos on paper towel substrate and artificial plants to make it easier to keep the enclosure clean and monitor for poop. It is common for geckos to stop eating for a week or two, and often they will eat only very late at night when it is the darkest and most quiet. Monitoring for regular deposits of poop is therefore the easiest way to be sure that your gecko is in fact eating. Even if your plan is to keep your gecko long term in a naturalistic vivarium, my recommendation is to use a very simple and easy to sterilize enclosure first while the gecko is in quarantine. Naturalistic vivariums are much harder to clean, and if some types of parasites happen to settle into a naturalistic vivarium, you may never be able to keep any Crested gecko in that vivarium without re-infesting it until the vivarium has been entirely broken down (dispose of substrate, plants, wood, etc) and sterilized. Much easier to start off with a cheap DIY plastic bin and fake plants and other easy to clean decor for the first month or so, and then transfer your gecko into its permanent home.
Crested geckos often are restless and extremely impatient to escape from their tiny shipping containers by the time they arrive to you. Exercise care when opening (preferably in a small room with minimal hiding spots, closed doors and windows, and all pets and small children out of the room) and be prepared for your gecko to try and scurry or jump away. Have the gecko's new enclosure open and completely set up (including fresh food and water) before releasing them from their container. We generally try and get an initial weight on all new animals, but sometimes they're just too skittish so we have to skip that and get them into their new enclosure as soon as possible. Mist the enclosure as soon as you add the gecko- they are often very thirsty and you will see them licking water off of the foliage in front of them. If they sit still and will allow it, we often offer a gecko a bit of CGD on the tip of a spoon handle right in front of but not touching their nose, and they often will lick it up. If not, we don't force the issue, and just close up their enclosure, place it in a quiet quarantine spot, and leave them alone.
Plan to give your new gecko at least two weeks to settle in before attempting to handle it on a regular basis. This adjustment period allows them to slowly grow used to feeling safe and comfortable in their new enclosures. It also gives a gecko's body time to adjust physically to all the changes associated with its new environment- lighting, water, temperatures, daily routines, etc. The more peaceful and stable its environment is during this critical period, the better chance you have of your gecko being less skittish once you do start trying to handle it for short periods of time.
Set up your gecko enclosure a minimum of a few days to a week or more in advance and begin misting and monitoring the humidity and temperature. This practice will help you troubleshoot for any problems BEFORE your new gecko might be subject to poor conditions, and allow you invaluable hands-on experience in terms of what it will take for you to maintain the proper humidity and temperature in your particular home. Be aware of how fluctuations in seasons and local weather conditions may change the conditions for your gecko over time, and be prepared with options to address these types of changes.
Changes, especially big changes such as being shipped across the country, being packed up and carried around in small plastic deli cups, and being forced into new, strange environments are always stressul on animals. Your job as a new owner is to try to do everything possible to minimize further stress and provide a calm, stable environment for them to settle into.
If you own or plan to own any other reptiles, especially other Crested geckos, any new gecko should go into a strict quarantine for at least the first month (some quarantine as long as three to six months) before being exposed to any other reptiles. This means different enclosures, ideally set up in separate parts of the house to minimize the risk of transmission of issues like respiratory diseases and mobile parasites, separate equipment for each gecko in quarantine, and be sure to wash your hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap when moving between geckos. It may sound extreme to some, but quarantine is the very best way to identify issues before they get any worse, and to prevent the spread of problems to animals that once were healthy before exposure to a new, sick animal.
We recommend starting off all newly arrived geckos on paper towel substrate and artificial plants to make it easier to keep the enclosure clean and monitor for poop. It is common for geckos to stop eating for a week or two, and often they will eat only very late at night when it is the darkest and most quiet. Monitoring for regular deposits of poop is therefore the easiest way to be sure that your gecko is in fact eating. Even if your plan is to keep your gecko long term in a naturalistic vivarium, my recommendation is to use a very simple and easy to sterilize enclosure first while the gecko is in quarantine. Naturalistic vivariums are much harder to clean, and if some types of parasites happen to settle into a naturalistic vivarium, you may never be able to keep any Crested gecko in that vivarium without re-infesting it until the vivarium has been entirely broken down (dispose of substrate, plants, wood, etc) and sterilized. Much easier to start off with a cheap DIY plastic bin and fake plants and other easy to clean decor for the first month or so, and then transfer your gecko into its permanent home.
Crested geckos often are restless and extremely impatient to escape from their tiny shipping containers by the time they arrive to you. Exercise care when opening (preferably in a small room with minimal hiding spots, closed doors and windows, and all pets and small children out of the room) and be prepared for your gecko to try and scurry or jump away. Have the gecko's new enclosure open and completely set up (including fresh food and water) before releasing them from their container. We generally try and get an initial weight on all new animals, but sometimes they're just too skittish so we have to skip that and get them into their new enclosure as soon as possible. Mist the enclosure as soon as you add the gecko- they are often very thirsty and you will see them licking water off of the foliage in front of them. If they sit still and will allow it, we often offer a gecko a bit of CGD on the tip of a spoon handle right in front of but not touching their nose, and they often will lick it up. If not, we don't force the issue, and just close up their enclosure, place it in a quiet quarantine spot, and leave them alone.
Plan to give your new gecko at least two weeks to settle in before attempting to handle it on a regular basis. This adjustment period allows them to slowly grow used to feeling safe and comfortable in their new enclosures. It also gives a gecko's body time to adjust physically to all the changes associated with its new environment- lighting, water, temperatures, daily routines, etc. The more peaceful and stable its environment is during this critical period, the better chance you have of your gecko being less skittish once you do start trying to handle it for short periods of time.
HANDLING A CRESTED GECKO
Photo courtesy of leaveittoweaver
As explained above, please allow a new gecko at least several weeks to acclimate to its new home before handling it on a regular basis. When you do start to handle your gecko, keep in mind that it is a very small animal and it may see you as a possible predator. Slow, calm movements are the best way to approach a gecko. When handling a gecko, use common sense. Be sure all small children and other pets that may startle them are out of the room, there are no open windows, and minimal areas for a gecko to run and hide should it attempt to escape.
It is also best to try to coax a gecko to walk onto your hand rather than to try and grab it. Place your hand or fingers right in front of the gecko and perhaps a bit under its chin. Some geckos will immediately take the cue and walk forward onto the hand in front of it. Sometimes it can help to gently touch a gecko in the hindquarters area with your other hand to get it to walk forward. If you have a gecko that always runs from your hand no matter how slowly you move, it make take more work and patience on your end. You may need to start by simply acclimating the gecko to your presence, standing or sitting in sight near the gecko's enclosure for some time each day. Perhaps then opening the enclosure and just watching the gecko for a few days, then having a hand in the enclosure as close as the gecko will tolerate without moving. Slowly over several days or weeks try and build up the gecko's trust. Give it experience seeing and smelling you without you attempting to touch or harm it in any way. You might eventually put a tiny bit of CGD or even honey on a finger in front of its nose to tempt it to lick you. (We would not generally recommend trying to handfeed it an entire meal- geckos can become too dependent upon handfeeding and this can lead to other issues.) Be very patient and let the gecko set the pace for this "hand-training"- the goal is to keep the gecko calm, and back off if at any point the gecko starts to get nervous or flees. As Crested geckos mostly are asleep during the day, this often is an easier time to handle them, as they often are slow to wake up and typically slower-moving in general than when fully awake as the often are at night.
Once you have a gecko in or on your hand, the best way to handle it is through "hand-walking." This involves letting the gecko walk across your hands using an alternating technique of continually placing one hand in front of the other, allowing it to walk freely and at its own pace from hand to hand. Handwalking is illustrated in the photo above. Be prepared for the gecko to occasionally run or jump. It is usually best to handle geckos over a table or a soft surface like a bed or carpet, as occasionally they will unexpectly jump off of a hand, arm, or shoulder. Though geckos are excellent jumpers, landing on hard surfaces can potentially harm them, and is fairly a common reason for them to drop a tail.
As geckos are arboreal in the wild, you will quickly see that they like climbing "up"- whether this be up an arm, table leg, or any other surface they can scramble or jump onto to climb. Though occasionally it is necessary to restrain a gecko, try to use as little restraint as possible as it can cause panic, and instead "re-direct" them by coaxing them back onto a hand so you can move or point them in a different direction.
Though most Crested geckos tolerate handling better than most other reptiles, there are some that simply will not calm down- perhaps due to past bad experiences or simply individual temperment. Young geckos, especially hatchlings, typically are nervous and more difficult to safely handle, but often will calm down as they grow. We generally handle each of our geckos several times a week. This keeps them used to being handled and also is the best opportunity for me to inspect them for any visible health issues, such as stuck shed or dried food in their toes. Even with geckos that do accept handling, it's best not to handle them for extensive periods of time, as they are creatures of habit and prone to stress when subject to too many changes. We handle our geckos generally for no more than thirty minutes at a time, and usually more like 10-15 minutes every few days. Though somewhat rare, there are geckos that just do not do well with handling at all, and are best enjoyed visually only.
It is also best to try to coax a gecko to walk onto your hand rather than to try and grab it. Place your hand or fingers right in front of the gecko and perhaps a bit under its chin. Some geckos will immediately take the cue and walk forward onto the hand in front of it. Sometimes it can help to gently touch a gecko in the hindquarters area with your other hand to get it to walk forward. If you have a gecko that always runs from your hand no matter how slowly you move, it make take more work and patience on your end. You may need to start by simply acclimating the gecko to your presence, standing or sitting in sight near the gecko's enclosure for some time each day. Perhaps then opening the enclosure and just watching the gecko for a few days, then having a hand in the enclosure as close as the gecko will tolerate without moving. Slowly over several days or weeks try and build up the gecko's trust. Give it experience seeing and smelling you without you attempting to touch or harm it in any way. You might eventually put a tiny bit of CGD or even honey on a finger in front of its nose to tempt it to lick you. (We would not generally recommend trying to handfeed it an entire meal- geckos can become too dependent upon handfeeding and this can lead to other issues.) Be very patient and let the gecko set the pace for this "hand-training"- the goal is to keep the gecko calm, and back off if at any point the gecko starts to get nervous or flees. As Crested geckos mostly are asleep during the day, this often is an easier time to handle them, as they often are slow to wake up and typically slower-moving in general than when fully awake as the often are at night.
Once you have a gecko in or on your hand, the best way to handle it is through "hand-walking." This involves letting the gecko walk across your hands using an alternating technique of continually placing one hand in front of the other, allowing it to walk freely and at its own pace from hand to hand. Handwalking is illustrated in the photo above. Be prepared for the gecko to occasionally run or jump. It is usually best to handle geckos over a table or a soft surface like a bed or carpet, as occasionally they will unexpectly jump off of a hand, arm, or shoulder. Though geckos are excellent jumpers, landing on hard surfaces can potentially harm them, and is fairly a common reason for them to drop a tail.
As geckos are arboreal in the wild, you will quickly see that they like climbing "up"- whether this be up an arm, table leg, or any other surface they can scramble or jump onto to climb. Though occasionally it is necessary to restrain a gecko, try to use as little restraint as possible as it can cause panic, and instead "re-direct" them by coaxing them back onto a hand so you can move or point them in a different direction.
Though most Crested geckos tolerate handling better than most other reptiles, there are some that simply will not calm down- perhaps due to past bad experiences or simply individual temperment. Young geckos, especially hatchlings, typically are nervous and more difficult to safely handle, but often will calm down as they grow. We generally handle each of our geckos several times a week. This keeps them used to being handled and also is the best opportunity for me to inspect them for any visible health issues, such as stuck shed or dried food in their toes. Even with geckos that do accept handling, it's best not to handle them for extensive periods of time, as they are creatures of habit and prone to stress when subject to too many changes. We handle our geckos generally for no more than thirty minutes at a time, and usually more like 10-15 minutes every few days. Though somewhat rare, there are geckos that just do not do well with handling at all, and are best enjoyed visually only.
COMMON HEALTH ISSUES
Photo of MBD-deformed leg courtesy of Styx
Overall, Crested geckos have proven to be a species that has adapted easily to captive life and fairly resistant to many of the issues common to other reptile species. Proper husbandry practices and common sense can prevent the vast majority of problems.
Despite this, it is still very common to purchase or otherwise "inherit" geckos that have not experienced proper husbandry from prior owners or handlers, and arrive to you sick, so it is very valuable to understand what to look out for and what basic "first aid" supplies should be kept on hand.
Minor issues can often be treated at home, but if an issue is major, does not seem to be getting better, or if an infection sets in, an animal should be taken in for a veterinary examination and treatment. There are not many vets with experience treating Crested geckos, so HerpVetConnection.com is one resource to try and locate one. When looking for a vet for a Crested gecko, it is usually best to call first to see if a veterinarian has or is comfortable treating a Crested gecko, as even some vets with herp experience are not. Though it is always wise to take online information with a grain of salt (including my website- we are far from perfect!) it is also a good idea to double-check basic husbandry advice from your veterinarian against reputable online sources, as even many herp vets have never had opportunity to work with this species, and there have been occasions where hobbyists have discovered a particular vet was not willing to admit lack of knowledge or experience with this particular species of gecko and gave very inappropriate advice. If a veterinarian advises you to keep your Crested gecko in a desert-type enclosure setup rather than a humid rainforest type of setup, the rest of their advice about how to treat your gecko unfortunately also may be suspect.
Despite this, it is still very common to purchase or otherwise "inherit" geckos that have not experienced proper husbandry from prior owners or handlers, and arrive to you sick, so it is very valuable to understand what to look out for and what basic "first aid" supplies should be kept on hand.
Minor issues can often be treated at home, but if an issue is major, does not seem to be getting better, or if an infection sets in, an animal should be taken in for a veterinary examination and treatment. There are not many vets with experience treating Crested geckos, so HerpVetConnection.com is one resource to try and locate one. When looking for a vet for a Crested gecko, it is usually best to call first to see if a veterinarian has or is comfortable treating a Crested gecko, as even some vets with herp experience are not. Though it is always wise to take online information with a grain of salt (including my website- we are far from perfect!) it is also a good idea to double-check basic husbandry advice from your veterinarian against reputable online sources, as even many herp vets have never had opportunity to work with this species, and there have been occasions where hobbyists have discovered a particular vet was not willing to admit lack of knowledge or experience with this particular species of gecko and gave very inappropriate advice. If a veterinarian advises you to keep your Crested gecko in a desert-type enclosure setup rather than a humid rainforest type of setup, the rest of their advice about how to treat your gecko unfortunately also may be suspect.
Dehydration
Dehydrated and malnourished hatchling. Photo courtesy of Rachel 'Rami" Bryson
Dehydration is probably the easiest problem to run into with Crested geckos, as they do require a specific humidity cycle. Humidity in a Crestie's enclosure must reach 80-90% at night, and then be allowed to dry out during the day, but not drop below 40-50%. If Crested geckos are not kept properly hydrated, they typically experience issues with shedding, and severe dehydration can lead to quick death due to overheating and/or organ failure. The most easily identified symptom of dehydration is usually skin that is shrunk into tight wrinkles.
The gecko pictured at right was a victim of both severe dehydration and malnutrition. It was eventually nursed back into health by using gecko "saunas" or "baths" (see First Aid Supplies section below) with Pedialyte, housing it in a more appropriate enclosure with a proper humidity cycle, and small, slow feedings of CGD.
The gecko pictured at right was a victim of both severe dehydration and malnutrition. It was eventually nursed back into health by using gecko "saunas" or "baths" (see First Aid Supplies section below) with Pedialyte, housing it in a more appropriate enclosure with a proper humidity cycle, and small, slow feedings of CGD.
Malnutrition
Malnourished adult. Photo courtesy of 'Rami' Bryson
Malnutrition can be a symptom of many different issues. The most common occurances of malnutrition in Crested geckos result from geckos being fed improper diets- either baby food, insects only, or diets designed for other lizards or reptiles with different dietary needs.
Malnutrition can also be a symptom of various diseases, parasites, or- as was the case with the gecko pictured- being bullied away from food when kept with other tankmates. Geckos that are housed together for any length of time need to have their weights always closely monitored, and be prepared to separate them should any issues arise (dramatic weight loss, wounds, observed fights, or other signs of illness or changes in behavior). Such problems can sometimes occur inexplicably between geckos that had been living together peacefully for years.
If a gecko is so malnourished that it arrives to you weak and shaky, it can often help to give it electrolytes (Pedialyte, made for human infants, is a very good source of electrolytes and can be given to Crested geckos). You can try to feed this using an eyedropper, small oral syringe, mixing it with some CGD instead of water, and/or using it to make a gecko "sauna/bath" (see the First Aid Supplies section below), as there has been some evidence that geckos can rehydrate through either their vents or skin. There are also several special diets and "reptile rescue formulas" you can find online in gecko forums. We always keep some of Repashy's SuperCal formula on hand to feed geckos who have shown evidence of dietary deficiencies.
Malnutrition can also be a symptom of various diseases, parasites, or- as was the case with the gecko pictured- being bullied away from food when kept with other tankmates. Geckos that are housed together for any length of time need to have their weights always closely monitored, and be prepared to separate them should any issues arise (dramatic weight loss, wounds, observed fights, or other signs of illness or changes in behavior). Such problems can sometimes occur inexplicably between geckos that had been living together peacefully for years.
If a gecko is so malnourished that it arrives to you weak and shaky, it can often help to give it electrolytes (Pedialyte, made for human infants, is a very good source of electrolytes and can be given to Crested geckos). You can try to feed this using an eyedropper, small oral syringe, mixing it with some CGD instead of water, and/or using it to make a gecko "sauna/bath" (see the First Aid Supplies section below), as there has been some evidence that geckos can rehydrate through either their vents or skin. There are also several special diets and "reptile rescue formulas" you can find online in gecko forums. We always keep some of Repashy's SuperCal formula on hand to feed geckos who have shown evidence of dietary deficiencies.
Shedding issues
Tail necrosis. Photo courtesy of Rachel 'Rami' Bryson
You will rarely ever observe Crested geckos shed, as they generally do this at night and then eat the shed. Occasionally you may find a small piece of shed stuck to a tail or leg the following day as the only evidence.
Cresties can occasionally have shedding issues, though, and especially if their enclosure does not experience the proper humidity cycle. Stuck shed occasionally needs to be removed by the Crested's keeper, as it can start infections and even block blood flow and cause the loss of tails, toes, and limbs if it happens to get stuck all the way around any of those extremities. The gecko pictured had the tip of its tail go necrotic, as can happen as a result of stuck shed (though this particular infection was the result of a bite from a cagemate). The tail did not respond to treatment, and a vet eventually had to remove the tail to ensure the infection did not spread and endanger the gecko's life.
A moistened cotton swap rolled gently over the stuck dead skin often is enough to loosen and remove it. Occasionally the skin needs to be further moistened either through placing the gecko in a 20-30 min "sauna/bath" (see First Aid Supplies section below), using a clean cotton swab to place a very small dab of pure aloe vera jelly on the skin (be sure to rinse off all the excess jelly afterwards), or occasionally even grabbing a loose edge of skin with some blunt-nosed tweezers and very slowly pulling. Be very careful not to damage the new underlying skin. Do your best not to further stress your gecko. Sometimes you may need to remove just bits at a time and strech the removal process out over a day or even a few days, though you must be sure to address any tightly rolled skin around limbs as soon as possible, as blood circulation cannot be shut off for long without permanent damage.
We inspect for stuck shed on almost a nightly basis, or every few nights, which is how often we handle each of our geckos. It's very easy to miss shed around toes and on the bottoms of feet, so we're especially careful to inspect all their feet regularly. Sometimes it's easiest to do this while they're still in their enclosures, if they happen to be hanging to one of the side walls or door.
Cresties can occasionally have shedding issues, though, and especially if their enclosure does not experience the proper humidity cycle. Stuck shed occasionally needs to be removed by the Crested's keeper, as it can start infections and even block blood flow and cause the loss of tails, toes, and limbs if it happens to get stuck all the way around any of those extremities. The gecko pictured had the tip of its tail go necrotic, as can happen as a result of stuck shed (though this particular infection was the result of a bite from a cagemate). The tail did not respond to treatment, and a vet eventually had to remove the tail to ensure the infection did not spread and endanger the gecko's life.
A moistened cotton swap rolled gently over the stuck dead skin often is enough to loosen and remove it. Occasionally the skin needs to be further moistened either through placing the gecko in a 20-30 min "sauna/bath" (see First Aid Supplies section below), using a clean cotton swab to place a very small dab of pure aloe vera jelly on the skin (be sure to rinse off all the excess jelly afterwards), or occasionally even grabbing a loose edge of skin with some blunt-nosed tweezers and very slowly pulling. Be very careful not to damage the new underlying skin. Do your best not to further stress your gecko. Sometimes you may need to remove just bits at a time and strech the removal process out over a day or even a few days, though you must be sure to address any tightly rolled skin around limbs as soon as possible, as blood circulation cannot be shut off for long without permanent damage.
We inspect for stuck shed on almost a nightly basis, or every few nights, which is how often we handle each of our geckos. It's very easy to miss shed around toes and on the bottoms of feet, so we're especially careful to inspect all their feet regularly. Sometimes it's easiest to do this while they're still in their enclosures, if they happen to be hanging to one of the side walls or door.
Dropped tails
Jeniene's tail will never grow back.
Like many other lizards, Crested geckos have a special muscle at the base of their tail that allows them to disconnect their tails as a lure to distract an enemy while the gecko makes its escape. However, unlike many other lizards, Crested geckos will not regenerate new tails. Once a Crestie has dropped it's tail, it is permanently gone- as with the gecko pictured.
Cresties may drop their tails as a result of being startled or frightened, having the tail grabbed or caught in an enclosure door, being dropped by a handler, during shipping, during fights or breeding squabbles, and sometimes for no identifiable reason at all. There have been reports of Crested geckos dropping their tails during thunderstorms.
Tailless Crested geckos are perfectly healthy. As a matter of fact, few if any adult animals in the wild have ever been seen with their tails. If your Crested gecko should drop its tail, your primary concern should be to keep the area clean to avoid infection. If your gecko is in a naturalistic setup, put it in a different quarantine tank with a paper towel substrate for a week or so instead just to make sure no dirt gets into the wound. Most of the time your gecko should heal up just fine without any intervention, but if you do start to notice any redness or inflamed tissue, chlorhexidine works well as an antiseptic and can then be followed with some triple antibiotic ointment. If the inflammation continues past the following day, please seek veterinary assistance.
Some people will consider a tailless gecko less aesthetically desirable and it may therefore affect their monetary value, but dropped tails are so common that for many hobbyists it makes no difference whatsoever.
Cresties may drop their tails as a result of being startled or frightened, having the tail grabbed or caught in an enclosure door, being dropped by a handler, during shipping, during fights or breeding squabbles, and sometimes for no identifiable reason at all. There have been reports of Crested geckos dropping their tails during thunderstorms.
Tailless Crested geckos are perfectly healthy. As a matter of fact, few if any adult animals in the wild have ever been seen with their tails. If your Crested gecko should drop its tail, your primary concern should be to keep the area clean to avoid infection. If your gecko is in a naturalistic setup, put it in a different quarantine tank with a paper towel substrate for a week or so instead just to make sure no dirt gets into the wound. Most of the time your gecko should heal up just fine without any intervention, but if you do start to notice any redness or inflamed tissue, chlorhexidine works well as an antiseptic and can then be followed with some triple antibiotic ointment. If the inflammation continues past the following day, please seek veterinary assistance.
Some people will consider a tailless gecko less aesthetically desirable and it may therefore affect their monetary value, but dropped tails are so common that for many hobbyists it makes no difference whatsoever.
Wounds and injuries
Photo courtesy of Rachel 'Rami' Bryson
The best treatment for wounds is always prevention. Handle Crested geckos carefully- away from other pets, small children and possible escape routes, inspect their enclosures regularly for problems like loose wires, hot areas that could burn them (from heating pads or lights), or areas they could become stuck, and practice good maintenance to keep their enclosures clean. Feeder insects such as crickets can also bite Crested geckos, and many keepers either hand-feed or feed insects in separate containers to better observe and avoid this risk. Cleaning enclosures regularly is one of the best ways to reduce the risk of infections should a wound occur. One of the most common cause of wounds in captive Crested geckos is from other geckos. For this reason I personally choose to house all my geckos individually through their entire lifespan, other than short breeding interludes.
Even under the most careful supervision accidents can happen, however. It is a judgment call how serious a wound needs to be before intervention, as treatment itself can be very stressful for an animal, and with minor issues sometimes they are best left to heal on their own. It may however be advisable to clean a wound with antiseptic (dilute Chlorhexidine or a 50% hydrogen peroxide/water solution can be used), and triple antibiotic ointment (without painkillers) can be applied to wounds that seem irritated and at risk for infection.
Keep in mind that if an infection seems to be spreading and/or if the gecko's condition (especially weight) continue to decline, it is advisable to seek the advice of an experienced herp vet, as the gecko may need professional treatment.
Even under the most careful supervision accidents can happen, however. It is a judgment call how serious a wound needs to be before intervention, as treatment itself can be very stressful for an animal, and with minor issues sometimes they are best left to heal on their own. It may however be advisable to clean a wound with antiseptic (dilute Chlorhexidine or a 50% hydrogen peroxide/water solution can be used), and triple antibiotic ointment (without painkillers) can be applied to wounds that seem irritated and at risk for infection.
Keep in mind that if an infection seems to be spreading and/or if the gecko's condition (especially weight) continue to decline, it is advisable to seek the advice of an experienced herp vet, as the gecko may need professional treatment.
Parasites
Photo courtesy of Alinda at harleygecko.com
Though as a whole Crested geckos have done well in captivity and are not nearly as prone to parasitic infections as many other reptiles, there are several parasites that are found on a regular basis and it is important to recognize the symptoms when you see them. Parasites can be especially problematic as they can be present in small numbers in animals without the animals showing any symptoms. These animals may be able to infect other animals, and if the host animal is stressed it sometimes triggers an infestation of the parasites, which can be very dangerous. Quarantining all new animals and animals that you suspect may be sick provides the best chance of catching and treating parasites before they have time to spread.
Entamoeba invadens
Entamoeba is one of the more common, contagious, and dangerous parasites that can infect Crested geckos. Symptoms include rapid weight loss, sunken eyes, lethargy, and in the latter stage of the disease the animal's vent may swell. Entamoeba is spread through contact; especially contact with the feces of an infected animal or anything that has been in contact with the feces of the animal (enclosures, decor, food/water dishes, a keeper's hands, etc). Many advise not keeping Crested geckos in the same enclosure with amphibians, as they are common carriers. Entamoeba is usually treated with Metronidazole (Flagyl), which in many areas can only be done by prescription and under the supervision of a veterinarian. Keep in mind that high doses of Metronidazole can cause sterility. The gecko pictured above was diagnosed with Entamoeba. It is pictured again below after successful treatment.
Pinworms, Tapeworms, Hookworms, and Roundworms
Infestations by these other intestinal parasites are rarely as serious as Entamoeba, but can still lower a gecko's immune system and make it weak and susceptible to other health issues. Symptoms can include weight loss, poor appetite, loose or smelly stools/ diarrhea, regurgitation, and in severe cases, dehydration. Some intestinal parasites have larval stages that can infest other organs, especially the lungs and respiratory system. Several of these parasites can be transmitted through infected food insects. Most commonly they are transmitted through contact, as with Entamoeba (see above). Metronidazole and/or fenbendazole (Panacur) are common treatments depending on the identified parasite, and also in many areas must be diagnosed by fecal examination and treated through a veterinarian.
Mites
Mites are small external parasites that are the "fleas" of the reptile world. You may see them crawling around the skin of a Crested gecko, especially in the creases and folds. Though rarely more than nuisances themselves, the bites they leave behind are at risk for infections, and mites can carry and transmit several other diseases and parasites. Mites are more commonly found on Crested geckos that have been bought at pet shops and so exposed to other reptile species carrying them. There are many topical treatments available, usually easily found in pet stores.
Coccidia/Coccidiosis, Cryptosporidium, and Salmonella
There have been few reported cases of these parasites and bacterial infections in Crested geckos, though there have been increasing issues among several other reptile species. If you ever notice bloody stools or mucus in your gecko's stool, quarantine it immediately and seek veterinary advice.
Entamoeba invadens
Entamoeba is one of the more common, contagious, and dangerous parasites that can infect Crested geckos. Symptoms include rapid weight loss, sunken eyes, lethargy, and in the latter stage of the disease the animal's vent may swell. Entamoeba is spread through contact; especially contact with the feces of an infected animal or anything that has been in contact with the feces of the animal (enclosures, decor, food/water dishes, a keeper's hands, etc). Many advise not keeping Crested geckos in the same enclosure with amphibians, as they are common carriers. Entamoeba is usually treated with Metronidazole (Flagyl), which in many areas can only be done by prescription and under the supervision of a veterinarian. Keep in mind that high doses of Metronidazole can cause sterility. The gecko pictured above was diagnosed with Entamoeba. It is pictured again below after successful treatment.
Pinworms, Tapeworms, Hookworms, and Roundworms
Infestations by these other intestinal parasites are rarely as serious as Entamoeba, but can still lower a gecko's immune system and make it weak and susceptible to other health issues. Symptoms can include weight loss, poor appetite, loose or smelly stools/ diarrhea, regurgitation, and in severe cases, dehydration. Some intestinal parasites have larval stages that can infest other organs, especially the lungs and respiratory system. Several of these parasites can be transmitted through infected food insects. Most commonly they are transmitted through contact, as with Entamoeba (see above). Metronidazole and/or fenbendazole (Panacur) are common treatments depending on the identified parasite, and also in many areas must be diagnosed by fecal examination and treated through a veterinarian.
Mites
Mites are small external parasites that are the "fleas" of the reptile world. You may see them crawling around the skin of a Crested gecko, especially in the creases and folds. Though rarely more than nuisances themselves, the bites they leave behind are at risk for infections, and mites can carry and transmit several other diseases and parasites. Mites are more commonly found on Crested geckos that have been bought at pet shops and so exposed to other reptile species carrying them. There are many topical treatments available, usually easily found in pet stores.
Coccidia/Coccidiosis, Cryptosporidium, and Salmonella
There have been few reported cases of these parasites and bacterial infections in Crested geckos, though there have been increasing issues among several other reptile species. If you ever notice bloody stools or mucus in your gecko's stool, quarantine it immediately and seek veterinary advice.
Photo courtesy of Alinda at harleygecko.com
Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)
Noumea's MBD- Photo courtesy of Styx
Symptoms of Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) can include soft bones (especially in the lower jaw, limbs, tail, and pelvis), kinked tails, curved spines, and poor muscle tone and coordination. The young gecko pictured at the right, Noumea, shows all of these symptoms. We do not yet know for sure whether or not there is any genetic component to the development of MBD, but we do know that it is primarily caused by dietary issues- especially lack of calcium.
In severe cases, MBD can cause death, as a gecko becomes so weak it can no longer swallow even when hand-fed. Sexually mature females are especially at risk for MBD due to the high amounts of calcium their bodies must release during egg production. Though there is no cure for MBD, most geckos can be stabilized so that the condition does not continue to deteriorate through dietary supplementation. Geckos with MBD generally have fragile bones and typically have muscle coordination issues, so it is advisable to keep them in smaller, shorter enclosures to minimize falling risks.
Geckos showing symptoms of MBD should never be bred. Though it is possible that MBD does not have any genetic component, breeding itself is very draining on Crested geckos, and could lead to serious health issues- possibly even death- for an already weakened gecko.
In severe cases, MBD can cause death, as a gecko becomes so weak it can no longer swallow even when hand-fed. Sexually mature females are especially at risk for MBD due to the high amounts of calcium their bodies must release during egg production. Though there is no cure for MBD, most geckos can be stabilized so that the condition does not continue to deteriorate through dietary supplementation. Geckos with MBD generally have fragile bones and typically have muscle coordination issues, so it is advisable to keep them in smaller, shorter enclosures to minimize falling risks.
Geckos showing symptoms of MBD should never be bred. Though it is possible that MBD does not have any genetic component, breeding itself is very draining on Crested geckos, and could lead to serious health issues- possibly even death- for an already weakened gecko.
Floppy Tail Syndrome (FTS)
Photo courtesy of Brandon Craig
The gecko in these pictures has a condition known as "Floppy Tail Syndrome." FTS is characterized by a bent tail that will not lay flat and often is angled off to one side of a gecko's body, and a dip behind a gecko's hips where the tail meets the body (see photos below). Though it is not yet certain how much of a genetic and nutritional component there is to the development of FTS, we have learned that it is geckos who tend to spend much time inverted with their tails hanging at a 90-degree angle that develop FTS, like the gecko pictured on the left. Geckos with MBD (see above) often also demonstrate FTS, and some consider FTS an "early warning sign" of MBD, though the link has not been established conclusively at this time.
If you notice your gecko spending much of its time hanging upside down from the top of its enclosure or head down on the side of the tank, it usually is a good idea to try and make some changes in its enclosure to encourage it to sleep elsewhere and in an upright position. Providing geckos with elevated caves, sleeping ledges, horizontal branches, and plenty of foliage high up in the enclosure often are good solutions.
Though FTS usually will not reverse itself, making sure that a gecko is on a properly balanced diet and getting it to sleep in a better position will usually help prevent the condition from getting worse.
Geckos with severe and unchecked FTS can develop hip and spinal deformities. These have the potential to cause serious issues in egglaying females, as the physical deformities may interfere with normal egg development and a female's ability to lay. Until it has been conclusively established that FTS does not have a genetic component, we have chosen not to breed any geckos that have FTS.
If you notice your gecko spending much of its time hanging upside down from the top of its enclosure or head down on the side of the tank, it usually is a good idea to try and make some changes in its enclosure to encourage it to sleep elsewhere and in an upright position. Providing geckos with elevated caves, sleeping ledges, horizontal branches, and plenty of foliage high up in the enclosure often are good solutions.
Though FTS usually will not reverse itself, making sure that a gecko is on a properly balanced diet and getting it to sleep in a better position will usually help prevent the condition from getting worse.
Geckos with severe and unchecked FTS can develop hip and spinal deformities. These have the potential to cause serious issues in egglaying females, as the physical deformities may interfere with normal egg development and a female's ability to lay. Until it has been conclusively established that FTS does not have a genetic component, we have chosen not to breed any geckos that have FTS.
 Photo courtesy of Brandon Craig |
 Photo courtesy of Brandon Craig |
Eggbound and Underweight Laying Females
Photo courtesy of Rachel 'Rami' Bryson.
Once they reach sexual maturity (approximately one and one half to two years of age), female Crested geckos will begin to lay eggs whether or not they have been bred with a male. These eggs will be infertile, but a female may produce and lay eggs at a rate of approximately two eggs every four weeks during warmer months. Egglaying is very energy intensive, and producing the eggs can very quickly drain a female, especially of calcium reserves. Egglaying females must be monitored carefully to ensure that their weight doesn't drop to critical levels, and some breeders add extra calcium to their diet during the laying season. I personally add a little bit of Repashy's SuperCal formula in with their normal CGD once a week to supplement any egglaying females.
The female pictured is severely underweight for egglaying, and both she and the eggs she has produced are showing deformities as a result. Notice the kinks in her tail- a very common symptom of calcium deficiency. If you have an underweight female who continues to lay eggs, you might try "cooling" her by reducing the number of hours her enclosure is lit and dropping the temperature into the low 60s F. This mimics the onset of winter, when most females will naturally stop laying eggs. All sexually mature females (especially those in breeding programs) should be "cooled" at least three to four months out of each year to give their bodies time to recouperate from egglaying. Some breeders routinely give their females year-long sabbaticals from breeding just to help maintain their weight and overall health.
Underweight females are also at much higher risk for being unable to pass their eggs, a condition called being "eggbound." Geckos may sometimes have problems passing their eggs due to lack of a laybox to deposit them in, dehydration, improper internal egg position, or various other internal issues. If a female shows signs of being gravid yet has not laid eggs after about 6 weeks, the gecko should be taken in to a vet for an examination and possible artifical egg deflation/removal. Providing proper nutrition, humidity, and a large laybox are the best ways to help prevent underweight and eggbound females.
The female pictured is severely underweight for egglaying, and both she and the eggs she has produced are showing deformities as a result. Notice the kinks in her tail- a very common symptom of calcium deficiency. If you have an underweight female who continues to lay eggs, you might try "cooling" her by reducing the number of hours her enclosure is lit and dropping the temperature into the low 60s F. This mimics the onset of winter, when most females will naturally stop laying eggs. All sexually mature females (especially those in breeding programs) should be "cooled" at least three to four months out of each year to give their bodies time to recouperate from egglaying. Some breeders routinely give their females year-long sabbaticals from breeding just to help maintain their weight and overall health.
Underweight females are also at much higher risk for being unable to pass their eggs, a condition called being "eggbound." Geckos may sometimes have problems passing their eggs due to lack of a laybox to deposit them in, dehydration, improper internal egg position, or various other internal issues. If a female shows signs of being gravid yet has not laid eggs after about 6 weeks, the gecko should be taken in to a vet for an examination and possible artifical egg deflation/removal. Providing proper nutrition, humidity, and a large laybox are the best ways to help prevent underweight and eggbound females.
Recommended First Aid Supplies
Assorted First Aid supplies
Gecko "sauna" setup
Crested geckos can need "saunas" or "baths" on a regular basis to help rehydrate them, clean off dried food, and/or help remove stuck shed. These are extremely easy to make. We use a large plastic foodware container with just a few holes punched in the side for airflow (we usually just punch one hole in each side, as you don't want to loose the humidity through too many holes). Then thoroughly soak a few paper towels with room temperature conditioned water and place these in the bottom of the container. Some people also pour a tiny bit of water into the bottom of the container, but we usually don't find this necessary as long as the paper towels are soaked. Gently place the gecko in the container, be sure not to close up any toes or tail in the lid, and let the gecko sit in the high humidity for 15-20 min. Once the gecko has had time to rehydrate, you can then gently rub a wet cotton swab over any food or shed to loosen and remove it. Geckos that show signs of severe dehydration and/or malnutrition can often benefit from a sauna made using Pedialyte instead of water, as the Pedialyte helps replace crucial electrolytes. Be sure to use room temperature water (60 - 80 F) rather than water that is warm to the touch, as warm water is likely to overheat a Crested gecko.
Quarantine enclosure
A quarantine enclosure is essential for the introduction of new animals to your collection as well as for treating sick animals. A QT enclosure should be basic and very easy to keep as sterile as possible. We use only silk plants, paper towel substrate, and plastic accessories in our QT setups, as all of these are either disposable or easy to wash with disinfectant.
Reptile-safe disinfectant
There are several different brands of reptile-safe disinfectant on the market, and they can usually be found in large pet stores. We use 2% chlorhexidine gluconate(Nolvasan brand name), which we purchase in concentrate and mix with water per the directions. In our opinion, enclosures and accessories should be thoroughly sterilized with disinfectant at least once a month to help prevent dangerous bacterial buildup.
Flavorless (clear) Pedialyte
Pedialyte is an electrolyte supplement commonly used for human infants (and can commonly be found in the infant section of a store, including grocery stores, convenience stores, and pharmacies). Geckos experiencing dehydration and/or malnutrition are often also very low on electrolytes, so using Pedialyte instead of water to mix up some CGD or even using Pedialyte instead of water in a gecko "sauna" can help. Though far from ideal and containing possibly dangerous dyes and other additives, electrolyte sports drinks like Gatorade have been substituted by keepers in an emergency when Pedialyte was not available.
Supplemental calcium (we keep Repashy's SuperCal HyD forumula and liquid Calcium glubianate)
Though geckos fed properly on CGD rarely ever demonstrate any calcium deficiency, it is not a bad idea to keep some supplement on hand for egglaying females (which are most at risk for calcium crashes), or to feed any gecko demonstrating symptoms of calcium deficiency. Both of these supplements can be kept in the refrigerator to prolong shelf life.
Triple antibiotic ointment WITHOUT painkillers (Neosporin or other brand)
Topical antibiotics can be useful for treating minor wounds that show signs of irritation. Monitor wounds carefully, and seek veterinary attention of a wound appears to be getting worse despite keeping it clean and use of a topical ointment.
Cotton balls and swabs
Useful for cleaning and applying medications.
Tweezers
We have several pairs of tweezers reserved for my geckos. One is a pair of regular blunt-nosed tweezers for helping remove stuck shed. The other is a long-handled pair (we have a 10" set) that we've found very useful for hand-feeding insects and working in otherwise hard-to reach areas of a gecko enclosure.
Several small (1 cc) oral syringes
Syringes are useful for hand-feeding medications. Care needs to be taken not to aspirate (choke) a gecko, though- so it's advisable to try and encourage a gecko to lick up food/meds/water on its own if possible.
Loupe/magnifying glass
Jeweler's loupes and/or magnifying glasses are useful to help try and sex younger geckos and for more closely examining suspected "problem areas." You can ususally find both online for sale, and generally they are not expensive.
Prune baby food
Feeding prune baby food may help relieve a constipated gecko. I'd try and find organic baby food that is low in sugar, if possible.
Pure organic honey
Honey can be useful in several different ways. If you're having issues with your gecko food molding overnight, a tiny drop of honey has some antifungal properties. If your gecko is extremely shy and hard to coax onto your hand, you might try training it to get used to your hand with a very small smear of honey starting on the tip of your finger and slowly move it further and further up your hand to reach the honey. If you have a male gecko whose hemipene becomes stuck outside its body, you can mix a little bit of honey in some water to try and help it shrink and retract again. Please keep in mind that honey is almost pure sugar and so needs to be fed extremely sparingly to make sure it does not affect a gecko's nutrition.
Pure aloe vera gel
Aloe can be used to help loosen up stuck shed. I would be very careful to rinse away aloe residue before it dries, however, as that has the potential to cause more problems.
KY jelly
KY jelly is a safe lubricant and can be applied to help a male retract a stuck hemipene.
Metronidazole (Flagyl) and fenbendazole (Panacur)
These are common medications used to treat parasitic infections. They can often be ordered online, but be sure to research proper dosing, and be aware in some states these are not legal to possess or use except by prescription and under veterinary supervision.
BREEDING
We are not going to address breeding much on this website, as this site is aimed primarily at those keeping Crested geckos as pets. If you do decide to breed your Crested geckos, we strongly recommend that you research the issue thoroughly beforehand. Please breed responsibly- make sure that you are not only prepared and able to care for all the eggs and hatchlings, but that you will be able to find good homes for all of them. Keep in mind that Crested geckos are extremely prolific- one female may be capable of producing 20 or more offspring, spread out over a year or longer, from a single mating! We recommend keeping Crested geckos for at least one year before attempting breeding, and spending plenty of time on active forums to learn more about proper breeding techniques, the Crested gecko market in your area, and what traits are desirable versus undesirable in breeding Cresties.
OTHER QUESTIONS OR ISSUES?
We are also always more than happy to answer any questions we can help you with in regards to your Crested gecko, whether or not you purchased it from Geckos in Tails. If we don't know an answer, we will do our best to help you research or point you in the direction we believe should help. Feel free to email us at LauraLee@GeckosinTails.com or use the contact form below:
